Double podding is borderline psychotic

Fresh broad beans are just starting to appear in the shops. This recipe really benefits from the tiny beans that you probably wouldn't buy normally. It also shows you just how deceiving senses can sometimes be, this will smell like the smokiest haddockiest food ever while it's cooking but when you come to eat it it will have a subtlety of flavour that will surprise you.

Smoked haddock and broad bean tagliatelle.

For four people you will need:

One undyed smoked haddock fillet (mine was about 400g)
About 500ml of milk (see later)
2 medium shallots, 2 sticks of celery and 1 medium carrot all scrubbed and finely chopped
Olive oil for frying
Two cloves of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
75g of smoked pancetta cut into small cubes
250g of closed-cup mushrooms, cleaned and finely sliced
One heaped dessert spoon of plain flour
A very large knob (phnarr) of butter
50g of freshly grated parmesan (if you even thought of using that pre-grated stuff please un-unfriend me now. I mean it. Begone.)
500g of fresh young broad beans in their pods
300g of tagliatelle
Salt and freshly ground pepper (Do I have to?)

Start by putting the fish, skin and all, into a saucepan and then cover with milk. The amount you need will vary according to circumstances, I needed 750ml but 500 ml might do it. Bring to the boil and then immediately reduce to a gentle simmer for five minutes before turning the heat off and leaving to infuse.

While all that's going on very gently fry the shallots, celery and carrot in the oil until they start to become sticky and translucent. Try and avoid brown bits. Definitely avoid crunchy bits. Add the sliced mushrooms and garlic and continue to fry until all the liquid from the mushrooms has evapourated and the hiss of steam has started to turn into the snap and crackle of frying again. Add the pancetta, continue stirring, and a minute or so later add the butter.

At this point remove the fish from the milk and set aside to cool. For goodness sake don't pour the milk away.

Once the butter has melted stir in the flour and cook for a couple of minutes while it all thickens up. Start to add the milk a little at a time, giving the sauce a chance to thicken each time. Once the sauce has reached the consistency of double cream give it a chance for the flour to thoroughly cook through and then add the parmesan, salt and pepper. Leave on a very low heat to contiunue to cook through (no-one sane likes floury sauces), stirring occasionally. If you have some milk left over don't throw it away. If you can't think if an amusing practical joke involving haddocky milk then you're not the person I thought you were.

Pod the broad beans (I really can't be arsed with double podding and with beans this size it would be borderline psychotic behaviour but if you fancy it go for it.) and gently flake the cooked haddock from its skin. You don't want fish-mush, firm chunky flakes are what you're aiming for here. Cook the pasta, keeping the sauce at barely-simmering throughout. Once the pasta is ready, stir the fish and beans into the sauce and drain the pasta. Once the beans have barely warmed through stir the sauce through the drained pasta and if it's all gone a bit too thick add a little of the reserved milk until you're happy with the consistency. Serve, enjoy, and wonder how long it's going to take for the smell of smoked haddock to disperse from your kitchen.