Monday, 13 March 2017

Definitely not paella

Monkfish is sometimes called poor man's lobster.  I'm guessing that means it used to be a lot cheaper than it is now.

But it's bloody lovely, and if you do splash out on some then it's worth doing something a bit special with it.  

OK.  

This is all, really, just an extended excuse to do a recipe that's more than a little bit OTT.  But it's a great showing-off dish and once it's all in the pan is just a question of adding stuff in the right order.

And no matter what it looks like it's definitely not a paella in any way shape or form.  Really.

Turmeric and cumin monkfish with smoked cod and chorizo.

For enough to feed four hungry people you will need:

2 shallots, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 stick of celery and 1 large carrot, thoroughly scrubbed and coarsely chopped
150g of diced smoked pancetta
2 large cloves of garlic peeled, flattened and coarsely chopped
Optionally some chopped fresh chilli (your choice of how much and what kind, I used two fresh bird-eye chillis)
200g of spicy chorizo, peeled and cut into small chunks
A small glass of white wine (try and find a use for the rest of the bottle, please)
500ml of fish or vegetable stock
1 tin of chopped tomatoes
150g of Bomba rice
400g of undyed smoked cod loin
The zest and juice of 1 lemon
150g of frozen peas
Optionally 400g of mixed seafood (I use a frozen mix of scallops, prawns, squid and mussels)
350g of fresh monkfish fillet
50g of plain flour
1 tsp of ground cumin
1 tsp of ground turmeric
50g butter
Olive oil for frying
Salt and pepper

Start by gently frying the shallots, celery and carrot in olive oil in a large lidded pan that's big enough to take all the ingredients.  Just barely sizzling is best as you're not looking for anything to get brown and crispy, just translucent and sticky.

After about 20 mins (longer if you have the patience) add the pancetta and garlic and continue gently frying until the meat is releasing its fat and flavours (add the chilli at this stage as well if you're using it).  After about another ten minutes add the chorizo and continue stirring.  After a further ten minutes the meat should be softening and there should be lots of fat released from the pancetta and chorizo.  Stir through the uncooked rice and make sure the grains are evenly coated and distributed.

Whack the heat up to high and pour in the white wine.  Keep stirring until the wine has almost completely evaporated and any sticky bits from the bottom of the pan have been worked loose and incorporated.  Add the tomatoes and stock, allow to come to a very gentle simmer, reduce the heat to keep it there.  Stir in the lemon zest and juice, cover and allow to cook for about 10-20 minutes.  Once the rice is starting to soften and absorb the stock gently place the cod loin in the pan, cover with the rice and then leave for 5-10 minutes.  Try and resist stirring it around as you'll break the fish into mush.  After it's cooked through on one side turn over and leave again until thoroughly cooked through.  At this point you should be able to gently tease apart into big meaty flakes.  Check the seasoning.

Once the rice has absorbed all the stock and is tender stir through the frozen peas.  If you're adding the mixed seafood also stir it through at this stage and leave the covered pan on a very low heat.  Lightness of touch is essential here, you don't want to go mixing it like cement and end up with fish-mush.  You also don't need to over-cook the peas, or seafood if you're using it.  Just warmed through is good enough.  Leave covered to keep warm while you finish the monkfish.

See, I didn't forget the monkfish.

Mix the flour, cumin and turmeric in a bowl with a generous seasoning of salt.  Cut the monkfish into bite-sized pieces and toss in the flour until thoroughly coated.

Heat the butter with an equal amount of olive oil in a frying pan on a high heat until foaming vigorously.  This is one of the few occasions I turn the heat up to max.  Quickly fry the coated monkfish pieces until just cooked through and starting to colour on the outside.

Serve the monkfish on top of the not-paella.  (I even stir the butter/oil mixture into the rice once I've finished with it provided the butter hasn't burned too badly).




Sunday, 5 March 2017

No-one wants flabby pasta

I've had a cold, and the weather is complementing it perfectly.  So that makes me crave comfort food and pasta normally features on most people's comfort food list.

When we serve pasta in this country it's almost always what the Italians call pastasciutta - boiled, drained and served with a sauce.  But if you want to dial the comfort factor up to 11 you can't go better than pasta in brodo - pasta that's served in a broth or soup.  This recipe stretches the definition a little but I don't have any Italian relatives to anger so I'm going to risk it.

Chicken, chorizo and pasta in brodo.

You will need:

6 chicken thighs
1 large shallot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 large or 2 medium carrots, scrubbed and coarsely diced
3 large sticks of celery, scrubbed and coarsely diced
150g of diced smoked pancetta (not the thinly sliced stuff, but small lardons)
150g of chorizo, peeled and cut into bite sized pieces
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled, flattened with the blade of knife and coarsely chopped
100g of cavolo nero (or kale), stripped from the stalks, rinsed and chopped into ribbons
1 400g tin of cannelini beans, drained
1 litre of chicken stock
150g of small dried pasta (macaroni or similar)
Olive oil for frying

The stock's important in this recipe so it's worth using the best you can.  If you have home-made then this recipe is definitely worthy of it.  If not, then this is one of the few times it's worth splashing out on the expensive stuff in the shops.

Heat a large pot or casserole with a splash of oil and then fry the chicken thighs on a high heat until they've got some colour.  Light brown and gold are good, black isn't.

Once they're the colour of chicken that you actually want to eat, remove the thighs and set aside.  Pour off the fat from the chicken, reduce the heat, add some more olive oil and then add the shallot, carrot and celery.  Gently fry for about 20-30 minutes.  The veg will become transclucent and the steam released should loosen any bits of chicken stuck to the bottom of the pan.  Add the pancetta and fry for another ten minutes until the fat starts to render down.  Then add the chorizo and garlic and, yes, fry for another ten minutes.  You're not trying to brown anything here - just heat up to the point that the flavours are released and start to mingle.

Once it's all looking glossy and smelling of pancetta, garlic and chorizo add the cavolo nero, stir through to combine and then add the stock and beans.  Put the chicken back in, season generously with salt and pepper, cover, and simmer gently for 40 minutes.

After 20 minutes cook the pasta in plenty of salted boiling water and drain.  This is, strictly speaking, a crime when cooking pasta in brodo.  The pasta should really be cooked in the broth but I have a reason for this which I'll come back to later.

Once the pasta is cooked and the chicken can be easily pulled from the bone it's done.  If you're serving it all at once then add the pasta to the main pot, stir through and then ladle into bowls.  The chicken should be tender enough to pull apart with a fork and spoon and you're aiming for a bowl of soup/stew with plenty of broth around the meat and veg.

If you're not serving it all at once keep the pasta separate and only combine in the serving bowls.  This is why I don't cook the pasta in the broth as, when left overnight, the pasta drinks all the broth and you're left with a pot of flabby pasta the consistency of baby food.  

And no-one wants that.  

Except possibly babies.